Williams-Sonoma took on the Texas barbecue belt with the Voltaggio brothers during our Fire Smoke & Flavor tour, where it’s all about the meat. At Smitty’s Market in Lockhart, Texas, everything is pit-smoked — and as pit master John Fullilove puts it, “We try to stay about 25 years behind the times.”

Click through the gallery below to see how the locals do it: with homemade sausage, brown butcher paper and mesquite wood.